Loss Of Rim Serial Data
Repair Information for P1614 Chevrolet code. Learn what does P1614 Chevrolet Loss Of RIM Serial Data means?
Rim Serial Numbers
Here it is: Checking Error Codes on an EFI Outlander (Article #202 Page 1) DustinMinnesota wrote: Thought I would share this since some people like to have information in hand when they call their dealers. Turn Ignition to Lights On position 2. Set speedometer to Engine Hours 3. Press and Hold selector button while switching the Hi-Lo beam 3 times in a row 4. Diagnostics mode is activated now 5. Use selector button to go through codes 6. END will come up when all codes are displayed 7.
To end mode hold the selector button for more than 2 seconds Codes can be found in the service manual that is available from the dealer. Thanks DustinMinnesota! Author Ronin Date & Time 07:23.
Turn key to lights on position 2. Use mode button and scroll to engine hour (EH) on gauge 3. Press and HOLD the mode button while quickly toggling between high and low beam ( min 3 toggles in 2 seconds) 4.
Hey folks, I've got a 2014 Can Am Commander XT1000 that went into limp home mode today and when I pulled the P codes, all I got was P1175. My problem is that I can't find a list of P codes that got to 1175. Does anyone have a new list of P Cade's that applies to the 14XT 1000?
Any help would be appreciated since my dealer has proven that warranty claims will always be denied. I didn't see p1175 on the list, but i saw you found it on another forum. Edited by 25TH INFANTRY, 13 April 2014 - 01:55 AM.
I called a local shop and they said to erase the code out of the ECU with the Consult II and to reprogram my key to work with my ECU again will cost $175. But he also said if he does it and it still doesnt work then i still have to pay for the service. So i have to be 100% sure that that is the problem.
Ok this is what i know so far. Code p1614- Loss of RIM serial Data.IMMU cannot receive the key ID Signal Code p1610- Loss of PZM serial Data.When the starting operation is crried out 5 times or more times consecutivly under the following conditions (NATS) Nissan Anti Theif System will shift the mode to one which prevents the engine from being started.Unregistered Ignition Key is used.IMMU or ECM is malfunctioning.It's in LOCK MODE MY Question: If i reset the ECU with the Consult II and reprogram my key to function with my ECU, would that fix my problem? I called a local shop and they said to erase the code out of the ECU with the Consult II and to reprogram my key to work with my ECU again will cost $175. But he also said if he does it and it still doesnt work then i still have to pay for the service. So i have to be 100% sure that that is the problem. Ok this is what i know so far. Code p1614- Loss of RIM serial Data.IMMU cannot receive the key ID Signal Code p1610- Loss of PZM serial Data.When the starting operation is crried out 5 times or more times consecutivly under the following conditions (NATS) Nissan Anti Theif System will shift the mode to one which prevents the engine from being started.Unregistered Ignition Key is used.IMMU or ECM is malfunctioning.It's in LOCK MODE MY Question: If i reset the ECU with the Consult II and reprogram my key to function with my ECU, would that fix my problem?
Maybe, there might be something wrong with your key, your module in your steering column, or your ECU. Checking codes does miracles doesn't it?
What I'm seeing here is that, first off, the IMMU (IMMobilizer Unit?) is unable to read the code from your key. But it lets you start the car anyway, with an unregistered key, and throws code P1614. Buuuut, once you do this five times, your anti-theft decides it's had enough of this and refuses to let you start the car anymore (code P1610). So then, the logical route is that the failure to start (P1610) is directly caused by the inability to identify the key (P1614), which is the IMMU's job. The long and short of it is, I believe that your IMMU is either fried or unable to get to the ECU. I saw your accident thread and read about the electrical problems you've been having. So the possibilities are either that your receiver/sending unit for the key code are fried, or that the wiring between the receiver and the ECU is damaged and thus the ECU can't receive the 'clear to start' code.
Basically I think that if you go to reprogram your keys and your ECU, they'll be matched and that'll be great.but I believe they probably are matched right now. I think you're looking more at a failure of either the signal receiver/sending unit (IMMU), or the wiring harness. Good luck, man.
I know how.in' annoying it can get trying to diagnose electrical system problems. God I'm so glad that I opted not to get the factory security system! One less thing to.ckup. Anyway, I don't know too much about the system since I don't have it, but from what I can tell, it seems pretty hard to diagnose the problem.
Did you just get new keys made recently (they have to be through the dealership since they have a chip inside them)? Do you have a spare key/does that one work? Maybe the system has to be reprogramed (at the dealer) if it sits for a while with the battery dead or unplugged.
Like I said before, I really don't know too much about the system - I'm just throwing ideas out there. Was your car up at a body shop for a while? Maybe someone tried to steal it while it was up there and that's why it's in this mode. Your car looks pretty flashy to me and I know how.ckers are up there (I grew up in NY), so it may very well be the case. Anyway, did you try clearing the trouble codes from the ECU (you can do it yourself very easily you know)? Maybe once you clear the codes the thing will restart.
If this has to do with the securety system cant any shop that deals with car alarms and remote starters would know what i'm talking about? I know if i buy the part it cant be returned since it's electrical. So are you sure replacing that part will get the job done?
(reminder, those are the only codes i have. I'm positive theres nothing wrong with my car besides this problem). And does this problem that i have, does it have to do with anything concerning my airbag in the steering wheel (i replaced it myself)? They might know. If you can get on the phone with the dealer they might be able to tell you something useful as well. I'm not a technician, I'm working off limited experience and common sense (not always applicable in automotive service). If this were my car, replacing this IMMU is the route I'd go at this point.
It's what I'd try next. But I can't give you a guarantee that that's the source of your problems. There are a couple people running part-outs right now. Since the part number appears to be the same on all B15s, you could try picking up an immobilizer controller for cheap from one of these part-outs, such as. IIRC nobody's asked him about the immobilizer yet. I don't really have much reason to believe that the airbags could have anything to do with it, I mean, unless you screwed up some wiring or killed a circuit, since the immobilizer is apparently also in that general area. But if it were an airbag problem, you'd have an airbag/SRS light or be throwing an airbag code.
It's possible that the immobilizer may need to be reprogrammed. I don't have much to back this up but I think it's the ECU that holds all the key information and knows when it's okay to start.the immobilizer tells the ECU about the key, and obeys the ECU's command to shut off the car. But hey, it could just as easily be the IMMU's job to receive and read the key, OK the key, and shut down the car. I don't know. Maybe it'd be the right route to first go have the ECU or IMMU or whatever reprogrammed for your keys.and then if that doesn't do it, replace the IMMU.